Sewing basics
Seam allowance on sewing patterns: what it is and how much is included
Seam allowance is the strip of fabric between the edge you cut and the line you stitch. On our patterns it is already included, so you cut on the printed line and sew a set distance from the edge: 1 cm (about 3/8") on most of them — 231 of the 254 pattern pages that state it. Each pattern page and sewing guide gives its own figure.
Why seam allowance matters
If you sew too close to the edge, the garment comes out bigger; too far in, it comes out smaller. On a skirt with four seams, 5 mm too far in on each seam takes 4 cm off the hip. Sewing the stated allowance keeps the fit the pattern was drafted for.
How to sew an even 1 cm allowance
- Use the engraved guide on your machine's needle plate: line the fabric edge up with the 1 cm mark.
- No 1 cm mark? Put a strip of masking tape 1 cm from the needle.
- Sew slowly on curves and watch the edge, not the needle.
Finishing the raw edge
After sewing, finish the allowance so it doesn't fray: zigzag, overlock, or a French seam on sheer fabric. Our tutorials show several ways: clean seam finishes and the overcast stitch.
Beginner patterns with a 1 cm seam allowance
#11
Jumper PDF Sewing Pattern
#34
Cropped Tee PDF Sewing Pattern
#46
Underbust Corset PDF Sewing Pattern
#47
Pajama Pants PDF Sewing Pattern
#66
Zip Jacket PDF Sewing Pattern
#67
Cargo Joggers PDF Sewing Pattern
Every pattern in the library, for one payment. 550+ PDF sewing patterns with layered A4 / US Letter files, A0 copy-shop files and illustrated guides, for $49, new releases included.
Frequently asked questions
Is seam allowance included in your patterns?
Yes. It is already drawn into every pattern piece, so you cut on the printed line; the pattern page and the sewing guide state the width.
How much is 1 cm in inches?
1 cm is about 3/8 of an inch (0.39").
Can I change the seam allowance?
Yes, but add or remove the same amount on both pieces you join, and keep in mind that it changes the finished size if you only change it when sewing.
More sewing guides
- How to measure yourself for a sewing pattern
- How to use a PDF sewing pattern
- Sewing pattern size chart, XS to XXXL
- PDF vs paper sewing patterns: which should you buy?
- What is a layered PDF sewing pattern?
- The best fabrics for beginner sewing projects
- What you need to start sewing clothes
- How much fabric do I need?
- Beginner vs intermediate sewing patterns: what's the difference?