How to Sew a Cargo Pocket

Cargo pockets add both functionality and style to pants, shorts, skirts, and jackets. These roomy, external pockets feature pleats or gussets for extra capacity and are perfect for carrying small items. Follow this guide to create professional-looking cargo pockets that combine practicality with rugged appeal.

What You'll Need

• Pocket pattern (self-drafted or commercial)
• Main fabric for pocket and flap
• Interfacing for pocket flap
• Sewing machine and matching thread
• Scissors or rotary cutter
• Pins or clips
• Marking tool
• Iron and pressing surface
• Closures (Velcro, snaps, or buttons)
• Ruler or measuring tape

Step 1: Prepare Your Pocket Pieces

1. Cut the Pieces
   • Main pocket: Cut one piece about 1" larger all around than your desired finished size
   • Pocket flap: Cut two pieces in your desired shape (usually rectangular or slightly curved)
   • Optional gusset: Cut strips for sides and bottom if making a three-dimensional pocket
2. Interface and Prepare
   • Apply interfacing to one pocket flap piece for stability
   • For pleated pockets, mark pleat lines on the wrong side of the main pocket piece

Step 2: Construct the Pocket

1. Create the Flap
   • Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch around three sides
   • Trim corners, turn right side out, and press
2. Form the Pocket
   • Fold and press the top edge of the main pocket to the wrong side by ¼", then another ½"
   • Stitch down this fold to create a clean top edge
   • If adding pleats, fold along marked lines and baste in place
3. Add Gussets (Optional)
   • For a dimensional pocket, stitch gusset pieces to the sides and bottom of the pocket
   • Press seams toward the gusset

Step 3: Attach the Pocket to Garment

1. Position Pieces
   • Mark pocket placement on your garment
   • Position the flap first, raw edge aligned with placement mark, right side of flap against right side of garment
   • Stitch flap in place, then fold down and press
2. Attach the Pocket
   • Position the prepared pocket below the flap
   • Pin carefully, ensuring the pocket is straight and properly positioned
3. Secure and Finish
   • Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, about ⅛" from the edge
   • Reinforce the top corners with triangular stitching or bar tacks
   • Add closures to the flap (Velcro, snap, or button)

Final Tips for Professional Cargo Pockets

• Topstitch around the flap ¼" from the edge for a crisp, professional look
• Consider double topstitching for a rugged, RTW appearance
• For heavy-use pockets, reinforce stress points with bar tacks or rivets
• Add a divider inside larger cargo pockets for organizing small items
• For authentic military styling, add a button to each bottom corner of the flap
• Match the weight of your pocket fabric to your garment fabric for proper drape
• Consider water-resistant fabrics for outdoor or utility garments