How to Sew an Inseam Pocket

Inseam pockets are hidden within side seams, offering functionality without disrupting a garment's design. These versatile pockets work beautifully in skirts, dresses, and pants, giving you convenient storage while maintaining a clean silhouette. Follow this guide to add practical, professional-looking inseam pockets to almost any garment with side seams.

What You'll Need

• Pocket pattern piece (self-drafted or from your pattern)
• Pocket fabric (lightweight cotton, lining fabric, or self-fabric)
• Sewing machine and matching thread
• Scissors or rotary cutter
• Pins or clips
• Marking tool
• Iron and pressing surface
• Seam ripper (if adding to an existing garment)

Step 1: Create Your Pocket Pattern and Pieces

1. Draft or Prepare Pattern
   • Create a pocket pattern approximately 6-7" deep and 6" wide with a curved bottom
   • If using a commercial pattern, use the provided pocket piece
2. Cut Your Pieces
   • Cut four identical pocket pieces (two for each side)
   • For visible pockets, use fashion fabric; for hidden pockets, lining fabric works well

Step 2: Attach Pockets to Garment Pieces

1. Mark Pocket Placement
   • On both front and back garment pieces, mark pocket placement along side seams
   • Typically 3-4" down from the waist or at a natural hand position
2. Attach First Sides
   • With right sides together, align one pocket piece to the front garment piece at the marked placement
   • Stitch along the side seam from the mark to the raw edge
   • Repeat with another pocket piece on the back garment piece
3. Press and Prepare
   • Press the pocket pieces away from the garment
   • Understitch the pocket to the seam allowance where possible to prevent showing

Step 3: Complete the Pocket

1. Join Garment Pieces
   • Place front and back garment pieces right sides together, aligning side seams and pocket pieces
2. Stitch Around Pocket and Seam
   • Begin stitching the side seam from the top to the pocket marking
   • Pivot and stitch around the perimeter of the pocket
   • Continue stitching the remainder of the side seam below the pocket
3. Reinforce and Finish
   • Backstitch at the top and bottom of the pocket opening for durability
   • Finish the seam allowances with serging or zigzag stitching
   • Press the seam with the pocket toward the front of the garment

Final Tips for Professional Pockets

• Choose pocket fabric that won't add bulk—lightweight cotton for summer garments, silk for delicate fabrics
• Make sure pocket placement feels natural for the wearer's hands
• For extra security, add a small horizontal bar tack at the top of each pocket opening
• Consider French seams for pocket edges in unlined garments for a clean finish
• For children's clothing or active wear, deeper pockets prevent items from falling out
• Match or contrast pocket fabric for an interesting hidden detail that only the wearer knows about