Inseam pockets are hidden within side seams, offering functionality without disrupting a garment's design. These versatile pockets work beautifully in skirts, dresses, and pants, giving you convenient storage while maintaining a clean silhouette. Follow this guide to add practical, professional-looking inseam pockets to almost any garment with side seams.
What You'll Need
Pocket pattern piece (self-drafted or from your pattern)
Pocket fabric (lightweight cotton, lining fabric, or self-fabric)
Sewing machine and matching thread
Scissors or rotary cutter
Pins or clips
Marking tool
Iron and pressing surface
Seam ripper (if adding to an existing garment)
Step 1: Create Your Pocket Pattern and Pieces
Draft or Prepare Pattern
Create a pocket pattern approximately 6-7" deep and 6" wide with a curved bottom
If using a commercial pattern, use the provided pocket piece
Cut Your Pieces
Cut four identical pocket pieces (two for each side)
For visible pockets, use fashion fabric; for hidden pockets, lining fabric works well
Step 2: Attach Pockets to Garment Pieces
Mark Pocket Placement
On both front and back garment pieces, mark pocket placement along side seams
Typically 3-4" down from the waist or at a natural hand position
Attach First Sides
With right sides together, align one pocket piece to the front garment piece at the marked placement
Stitch along the side seam from the mark to the raw edge
Repeat with another pocket piece on the back garment piece
Press and Prepare
Press the pocket pieces away from the garment
Understitch the pocket to the seam allowance where possible to prevent showing
Step 3: Complete the Pocket
Join Garment Pieces
Place front and back garment pieces right sides together, aligning side seams and pocket pieces
Stitch Around Pocket and Seam
Begin stitching the side seam from the top to the pocket marking
Pivot and stitch around the perimeter of the pocket
Continue stitching the remainder of the side seam below the pocket
Reinforce and Finish
Backstitch at the top and bottom of the pocket opening for durability
Finish the seam allowances with serging or zigzag stitching
Press the seam with the pocket toward the front of the garment
Final Tips for Professional Pockets
Choose pocket fabric that won't add bulk—lightweight cotton for summer garments, silk for delicate fabrics
Make sure pocket placement feels natural for the wearer's hands
For extra security, add a small horizontal bar tack at the top of each pocket opening
Consider French seams for pocket edges in unlined garments for a clean finish
For children's clothing or active wear, deeper pockets prevent items from falling out
Match or contrast pocket fabric for an interesting hidden detail that only the wearer knows about