Cargo pockets add both functionality and style to pants, shorts, skirts, and jackets. These roomy, external pockets feature pleats or gussets for extra capacity and are perfect for carrying small items. Follow this guide to create professional-looking cargo pockets that combine practicality with rugged appeal.
What You'll Need
Pocket pattern (self-drafted or commercial)
Main fabric for pocket and flap
Interfacing for pocket flap
Sewing machine and matching thread
Scissors or rotary cutter
Pins or clips
Marking tool
Iron and pressing surface
Closures (Velcro, snaps, or buttons)
Ruler or measuring tape
Step 1: Prepare Your Pocket Pieces
Cut the Pieces
Main pocket: Cut one piece about 1" larger all around than your desired finished size
Pocket flap: Cut two pieces in your desired shape (usually rectangular or slightly curved)
Optional gusset: Cut strips for sides and bottom if making a three-dimensional pocket
Interface and Prepare
Apply interfacing to one pocket flap piece for stability
For pleated pockets, mark pleat lines on the wrong side of the main pocket piece
Step 2: Construct the Pocket
Create the Flap
Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch around three sides
Trim corners, turn right side out, and press
Form the Pocket
Fold and press the top edge of the main pocket to the wrong side by ¼", then another ½"
Stitch down this fold to create a clean top edge
If adding pleats, fold along marked lines and baste in place
Add Gussets (Optional)
For a dimensional pocket, stitch gusset pieces to the sides and bottom of the pocket
Press seams toward the gusset
Step 3: Attach the Pocket to Garment
Position Pieces
Mark pocket placement on your garment
Position the flap first, raw edge aligned with placement mark, right side of flap against right side of garment
Stitch flap in place, then fold down and press
Attach the Pocket
Position the prepared pocket below the flap
Pin carefully, ensuring the pocket is straight and properly positioned
Secure and Finish
Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, about ⅛" from the edge
Reinforce the top corners with triangular stitching or bar tacks
Add closures to the flap (Velcro, snap, or button)
Final Tips for Professional Cargo Pockets
Topstitch around the flap ¼" from the edge for a crisp, professional look
Consider double topstitching for a rugged, RTW appearance
For heavy-use pockets, reinforce stress points with bar tacks or rivets
Add a divider inside larger cargo pockets for organizing small items
For authentic military styling, add a button to each bottom corner of the flap
Match the weight of your pocket fabric to your garment fabric for proper drape
Consider water-resistant fabrics for outdoor or utility garments