How to Line Clothes: A Complete Guide

Adding a lining to your handmade garments elevates them from homemade to professionally finished pieces. Linings not only improve comfort and wearability but also extend the life of your garments while providing a beautiful, clean interior finish. In this comprehensive guide, I'll walk you through everything you need to know about lining different types of clothing.

Why Line Your Garments?

Before diving into the how-to, let's understand why linings are worth the extra effort:

• Improved comfort: Linings create a smooth layer between your skin and potentially scratchy fabrics like wool or sequined materials
• Better drape and structure: Linings help garments maintain their intended shape and flow
• Extended garment life: Linings reduce friction and absorb body oils, protecting the outer fabric
• Opacity: For sheer or light-colored fabrics, linings prevent see-through issues
• Professional finish: Clean interior construction elevates your sewing projects
• Warmth: Linings add an insulating layer for cold-weather garments

Choosing the Right Lining Fabric

Selecting appropriate lining fabric is crucial for a successful project:

Popular Lining Fabrics:

• Silk charmeuse: Luxurious, breathable, and comfortable against skin
• Polyester satin: Affordable alternative to silk with similar properties
• Bemberg/cupro: Breathable rayon fabric with silk-like qualities
• Cotton batiste/lawn: Breathable option for summer garments
• Kasha satin: Flannel-backed satin for winter garments needing warmth

Selection Criteria:

• Match the weight of your lining to your fashion fabric (lightweight linings for lightweight fabrics)
• Consider the season and intended wear of the garment
• Choose slippery fabrics for garments worn over other clothing (jackets, coats)
• Select breathable options for garments worn directly against skin

Essential Tools and Supplies

Before beginning your lining project, gather these supplies:

• Lining fabric
• Matching thread
• Sharp scissors or rotary cutter
• Fine pins or clips
• Hand-sewing needles
• Measuring tape
• Iron and ironing board
• Tailor's ham (for pressing curved seams)

Basic Lining Methods

The Bagged Lining Method

This technique is perfect for jackets, coats, and vests:

1. Construct the outer garment and lining separately, leaving openings at the hem and sleeves
2. Join the pieces with right sides together at edges (neckline, front edges, bottom hem)
3. Turn right side out through an opening (typically a sleeve or side seam)
4. Close the opening with a slip stitch or ladder stitch by hand

The Free-Hanging Lining Method

Ideal for skirts and dresses:

1. Construct the outer garment completely
2. Create the lining as a separate unit, slightly smaller than the outer garment
3. Attach the lining at the waistband or zipper area
4. Hand-stitch the lining to the zipper tape
5. Hem the lining separately, shorter than the outer garment

Step-by-Step: Lining a Skirt

Let's walk through lining a basic skirt:

1. Cut your lining using the same pattern pieces as your skirt, but eliminate any facings
2. Reduce the lining hem by 1-2 inches to prevent it from peeking below the skirt
3. Construct the lining following the same steps as the outer skirt
4. Insert the lining with wrong sides together
5. Attach at the waistband by sandwiching both layers
6. Secure the lining at the zipper by hand
7. Hem the lining separately from the outer skirt

Step-by-Step: Lining a Jacket

For a classic blazer or jacket:

1. Modify your pattern pieces if necessary (some patterns include lining pieces)
2. Cut the lining allowing extra room across the back (a center back pleat adds movement)
3. Construct the lining similar to the outer jacket, minus any topstitching
4. Prepare facings by attaching interfacing and joining to the front edges
5. Attach the lining to facings right sides together
6. Join the outer jacket and lining/facing unit at the neckline and front edges
7. Turn right side out and press
8. Set in lining sleeves
9. Complete hems with a jump hem (allowing extra movement)

Professional Touches

These details elevate your lined garments:

Jump Hem

Add extra length (1-2 inches) to the lining sleeve and body hem, creating a fold that allows movement without pulling.

Back Pleat

Add a center back pleat to jacket linings for ease of movement:

1. Cut the center back lining piece with an extra 1-1.5 inches
2. Create an inverted pleat and baste at the neck and hem

Hong Kong Seam Finish

For partially lined garments, finish exposed seams with bias binding for a professional touch.

Stay Tape

Apply stay tape to edges that might stretch (necklines, armholes) before attaching lining.

Common Challenges and Solutions

Lining Pulls or Twists

• Ensure lining is cut slightly smaller than outer garment
• Check that the lining has adequate ease in movement areas
• Verify proper pleat placement in jackets

Visible Lining

• Hem lining 1-2 inches shorter than outer garment
• Use matching thread when securing lining at zippers
• Choose a lining color that coordinates with the outer fabric

Bunching or Wrinkling

• Check for proper seam grading
• Ensure adequate pressing during construction
• Confirm lining fabric is appropriate for the garment type